Tutorial, part 1 - Pattern Pieces

NOTE: This tutorial was originally specifically intended to accompany our Bad Wolf Costumes jumpsuit sewing pattern, but you may, of course, adapt it to other existing patterns or even use it as a basis for drafting your own if you wish. 

On our jumpsuit pattern, unless otherwise noted, all pattern pieces have a ⅜" seam allowance!

The jumpsuit body panels are printed in two separate pieces which need to be joined before cutting (except the center back, which are in three pieces). 

While perhaps a tad inconvenient, this was done for two reasons: first, to minimize the price of the pattern (larger pages cost significantly more to print), but, perhaps more importantly, because the upper portion of the back of the DS9/NEM cadet jumpsuit was different than the DS9/NEM and VOY duty jumpsuits, and therefore it would require a different cut prior to construction. 

So, when joining the upper and lower body panels prior to cutting, know that the lower pieces work with all versions, but the DS9/NEM cadet jumpsuit has its own upper back body panel pieces, while the DS9/NEM and VOY duty jumpsuits have theirs. 

In other words, if you want to make the DS9/NEM cadet jumpsuit jumpsuit, attach the appropriate upper body panels to the lower body panels (they're labeled on the pattern).

These can be joined in whatever manner you choose; we like to simply tape them together prior to cutting. 

Note that there is no seam allowance, as there is no seam in the body panels there!

However, there is a seam along the center back, but it's between the uppermost and "middle" pieces; the lower two should be taped together prior to cutting, but the lower assembly will be sewn to the upper piece later. 

That said, cut out your pattern pieces. 

Serge all edges of every jumpsuit body piece (body panels, sleeves, and facing). 

We also recommend serging the edges of your elastic waistband channels (piece M), pocket pouches (piece S), and pocket pouch strips (piece T). 

We recommend the side elastic waistband channel stitch lines on the side body panels (pieces D and E) with chalk on the inside/wrong side of the garment.

Laying the jumpsuit body panel pieces next to each other, you can easily see how the jumpsuit body basically goes together.

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