We believe it's easier to install the pockets before the elastic waistbands, as the latter gather the fabric progressively more toward the waist and makes it more difficult to install something onto the (not so) flat pant legs, but you may install the pockets after the elastic channel if you wish; simply do this step and the following step in the reverse order.
Sew two pocket flaps (piece U) together along the side and lower edges with ½" seam allowance, right sides facing.
Clip the seam allowances around the lower three (sewn) corners.
Turn your pocket flap right sides out and press.
Serge the top edge of the pocket flap.
Topstitch around the pocket flap ½" from the side and lower edges.
Center the pocket flap over the side seam of the jumpsuit body, right sides facing with the serged edge on the bottom, and pin in place.
We recommend placing the bottom of the pocket flap 6" beneath the bottom of the elastic waistband (or, rather, where it's going to go), but the pocket placement varied considerably on the screen-used uniforms, so the important thing is really just that the two pockets are placed symmetrically.
Sew the pocket flap to the jumpsuit body ¼" from its bottom edge, reinforcing the stitch at the ends.
Press the pocket flap downward.
Topstitch through all layers ¼" from the upper edge of the pocket flap.
To form the pocket bag, sew the pocket pouch strip (piece T) to the pocket bag (piece S) along the edges of the latter, right sides facing, and pivoting around the corners as gracefully as possible.
Turn the pocket pouch strip under and press.
Topstitch around the side and lower edges of the pocket, ¼" away from the seam line and securing the seam allowances underneath.
Turn the top edge of the pocket bag under 1" and hem it into place through all layers.
Turn the outer (un-sewn) edges of the pocket bag assembly under ½" and press.
Pin the pocket bag to the jumpsuit body beneath the pocket flap, likewise centered over the side body seam.
Edge-stitch the pocket bag to the jumpsuit body along the side and lower edges, reinforcing the stitch along the uppermost 1" or so of the pocket bag.
Repeat for the other side.
PREVIOUS: Tutorial, part 12 - Close Sides and Sleeve Vents
NEXT: Tutorial, part 14 - Elastic Waistbands
No comments:
Post a Comment