April 18, 2015

Analysis, part 3 - Trim

A major feature of the DS9/NEM-era uniform yokes was ⅜" wool gabardine bias-cut trim - essentially custom-made bias tape) that decorated the neckline/front opening, yoke bottom, and shoulder points.

It was most clearly observable on Data's uniform in First Contact:

First Contact (DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit pictured)

The difference in how the yoke and trim fabrics shone on camera under different lightings was not as striking on the DS9/NEM cadet jumpsuit as it was with the DS9/NEM duty jumpsuits; this is probably both because the cadet jumpsuit's yoke and yoke trim were both the same fabrics, and because most of the obvious color/sheen differences were on the "big screen" with all the fancy movie lighting and cameras, not on television. 

Nevertheless, the construction approach of the trim was the same on both jumpsuits: 



The DS9/NEM yoke trim possessed three miters on each side (well, two and one "faux-miter"). 


Two were along the neckline/front opening. 

The first was at the top corner of the front opening (see right). 

The other was at the bottom of the front opening, where the yoke met the body (also see right). 













What's important to note about the latter (the lower of the two, at the bottom of the front opening) is: 



(At least, it was in the sense that it was two separate strips of bias-cut fabric that were sewn together, not one strip mitered with the traditional quilting method.) 


Pictures of the inside front of screen-used DS9/NEM cadet jumpsuits are extremely difficult to find, as these uniforms are even rarer than the duty jumpsuits.

However, we believe it is reasonable to assume that the DS9/NEM cadet jumpsuits' yoke trims were constructed in the same manner as the DS9/NEM duty jumpsuits'

On the duty jumpsuits, the trim at the bottom of the yoke and around the neckline was supposed to appear to be one continuous piece, mitered at the corners, but, in fact, it was three separate pieces: left yoke bottom, neckline, and right yoke bottom. The "faux miters" at the bottom of the front opening established the illusion of it being a continuous strip of bias trim. 

DS9, 7x19 "Strange Bedfellows"
However, we did catch a brief glimpse of the inside of Chief O'Brien's duty jumpsuit, just once! 

Note that on the underside of the yoke, the trim is NOT mitered, but, rather, simply folded out of sight.















We're not sure about the upper front opening miter, though; on the photo from Niner's Paradise, it looks as if the front opening trim was simply attached over existing neckline trim:



The upper miter looked quite genuine on the duty jumpsuits, though ...

DS9, 7x23 "Extreme Measures"


So while we're honestly not sure, we don't consider it heresy to "properly" miter the trim at the upper corners of the front opening (if, indeed, the duty jumpsuits' were done in that matter). It'll be your call on your uniform, though!


The third miter was at the bottom corner of the shoulder point, at the "center" quilt line: 


DS9, 7x5 "Chrysalis"
(DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit pictured)
DS9, 7x8 "The Siege of AR-558"
(DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit pictured)
DS9, 7x11 "Prodigal Daughter"
(DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit pictured)
DS9, 7x13 "Field of Fire"
(DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit pictured)
DS9, 7x24 "The Dogs of War"
(DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit pictured)


PREVIOUS: Analysis, part 2 - Shoulder Point

No comments:

Post a Comment