This is a prime example of an assembly that might seem dauntingly complicated at first but actually isn't very difficult after actually practicing it once or twice.
The assembly itself is in five pieces, plus interfacing.
Start by fusing the interfacing to the sleeve cuff bands (piece J).
This will give them more dimension, as they tend to look disappointingly flat without it. It will also make the cuff sturdier, which is particularly important for the upper band; you don't want it to flop around!
The sleeve cuff pattern pieces, "in order," will look like this:
Start by sewing the upper band (piece J) to the inner layer (piece K), right sides together and edges flush.
Press the seam allowances upward, and press the inner layer down.
Fold the band piece over the seam allowances and press it down toward the underside, so that the wrong sides of the band and inner layer are facing and their lower edges are flush. This forms the actual band.
Sew the upper band assembly to the division stripe with ¼" seam allowance, with the long edges of the division stripe and the inner layer flush and right sides together.
Press the seam allowances toward the division stripe.
Repeat for the bottom half of the cuff.
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| (DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit pictured) |
If you're making "regular" sleeves (with no vents), set the sleeve cuff aside for now and skip to the next step.
If you're making vented sleeves, fold the bands back under.
"Stitch in the ditch" to secure the undersides of the band and form the actual sleeve cuff.
Serge the outside (short, raw) edges of the cuff.
Fold the sleeve hem upward and press.
Sew or baste the hem allowance to the sleeve along the sleeve sides and pin the upper edge into place.
NOTE: The sleeve, as it is on the pattern, has 4" hem allowance, which is generous, to say the least - double the 2" hem allowance sleeves usually have. This was done for two reasons: first, to provide the widest range of potential hems for the costumer, and second, so that the hem would extend all the way to the top of the sleeve vent on the vented sleeves.
The process of attaching the sleeve cuff and constructing the vented sleeve does not require 4" hem allowance to work properly!
Whether you are constructing "regular" or vented sleeves, you may reduce the hem allowance if you wish; if you do so, we recommend reducing it to 2 ½" or even 3" to ensure that it will be secured when the sleeve cuff is attached.
Pin the sleeve cuff to the right side of the sleeve, facing upward.
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| (DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit pictured) |
"Stitch in the ditch" along the lower edge of the upper sleeve cuff band and along the upper edge of the lower band to secure the sleeve cuff to the sleeve.
OPTIONAL: Hand sew the upper edge of the hem allowances into place.
You should now have two (otherwise) finished sleeves, huzzah!
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| (DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit vented sleeves pictured above) |
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