Pin the sleeve assembly to the appropriate side of the jumpsuit body, matching the "center" quilt line with the shoulder seam and the lower edges of the shoulder point with the bottom of the jumpsuit body's yoke.
Baste the sleeve assembly to the jumpsuit body.
Flip the garment around (right sides out) and inspect to confirm proper alignment of the "center" quilt line and shoulder seam, as well as the shoulder point trim with the jumpsuit body's yoke trim.
Once satisfied with the proper alignment, sew the sleeve assembly to the jumpsuit body, using gray thread for the sleeve portion and division-color thread for the yoke. We recommend stitching twice for thoroughness (as done before with the yoke), as well as reinforcing at the shoulder seam and bottom of the shoulder point/yoke.
TIP: We recommend using your quilting/walking foot to baste at the three key areas (front yoke bottom, "center" quilt line/shoulder seam, and back yoke bottom) first, adjusting as necessary. Once these three intersections have been properly aligned, sew the shoulder point to the yoke, then switch to gray thread and a regular foot to sew the remainder of the armscye (sleeve and lower sleeve hole). Once satisfied with the joining, stitch the shoulder point to the yoke again and reinforce at the aforementioned three key areas.
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| (DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit pictured) |
It's at this point that you'll be glad you clipped out the batting/backing in a few areas to reduce bulk!
As done previously with the shoulder seam, topstitch both the yoke and shoulder point ⅛" on each side of and parallel to the armscye seam, forming three parallel lines and securing the seam allowances in place.
Remember, the bottom of the armscye topstitch should meet a quilt line or a mid-quilt line on both the yoke and shoulder point, and at the shoulder seam the armscye topstitch should "peak" where the next quilt line would be.
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