Using your zipper/piping/ foot, sew the front yoke to the front body assembly with 1" seam allowance, carefully aligning the bottom outer edges of the yoke with the upper outer edges of the front body assembly.
This is easy along the outer edges, but it gets progressively more difficult toward the center.
In fact, you may want to machine sew as closely to the center as you comfortably can, then hand sew the rest.
I hate this! |
Repeat for the other side.
Press the seam allowances upward and pin in place on the upper edge of the yoke trim.
Turn the neckline trim under, folding it in half on the underside with the raw edge tucked inside, in the same manner as you would normally attach double-fold bias tape.
Using your quilting/walking foot and division-color thread, "stitch in the ditch" along the outer edge of the trim, securing the yoke/body seam allowances and the under-folded neckline trim.
Attach the back yoke to the back body assembly in the same manner as the front - that is, using your zipper/piping foot with 1" seam allowance, the seam allowance pressed upward, and secured with a "stitch in the ditch."
Remove bulk at the armscye by cutting off about ½" of the body seam allowances at the armscye above the upper (gray "stitch in the ditch") stitch line, on both sides of the front and back.
Hand sew the seam allowances to the back of the yoke, taking care to only stitch trough the backing.
Set the body assembly aside for now (preferably flat on the floor or hanging on a hangar).
PREVIOUS: Tutorial, part 6 - Back Body
NEXT: Tutorial, part 8 - Shoulder Point
PREVIOUS: Tutorial, part 6 - Back Body
NEXT: Tutorial, part 8 - Shoulder Point
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