April 18, 2015

Construction Analysis Summary

At this point, some of you probably feel like this:


But that's okay, because here's a summary of the construction standards we just walked you through! 

* Quilted division-color wool gabardine yoke (¾" parallel quilt lines) that extended onto the sleeves (via "shoulder points"), nested with the undershirt neckline

* ⅜" matching wool gabardine neckline, yoke, and shoulder point trim, mitered at the top of the front opening, "faux- mitered" at the bottom of the front opening, and mitered on the bottom corner of the shoulder points

* Yoke front center could be straight, cut at top-to-bottom widths of half or full quilt lines (⅜" or ¾", respectively)

* ⅛" topstitching on each side of and parallel to shoulder and armscye seams

* All relevant seams and intersections' placements determined by aligning with appropriate quilt lines or mid-quilt lines

* Front-closing via an invisible zipper with a facing secured at the top to the yoke facing

* 8-panel body construction beneath yoke (center front, side front, side back, center back), all being continuous pieces from top to bottom except center backs, which have a horizontal waistline seam

* Large seam allowances at top of body, pressed upward, secured with a "stitch in the ditch" on the upper edge of the yoke trim, and hand sewn to the yoke lining

* 2" elastic waistbands on the side body panels, secured in the back with a strip of grossgrain ribbon, secured in the front with two strips of grossgrain ribbon and two trouser-style hook-and-eye closures

* 2" belt made of self-fabric that closes in the back via hook-and-loop tape ("Velcro")

* Small "belt loop" in back, even with the elastic channels and vertically centered over the back body waistline seam

* Cargo pockets with flaps on each thigh

* Sleeve cuffs comprising of ⅜" upper and lower raised bands and a ½" division stripe centered between them ½" from each, with a separate facing attached to the lower band and presumably secured with a "stitch in the ditch" or two

* Long pants closed around the circumferences of the legs and elastic "stirrups," with no visible hemming


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NEXT: Exceptions and Oddities

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