While some costumers may find a perfect fit in one of the "default" pattern sizes, it is somewhat unlikely due to variations in height, weight, build, musculature, neck size, and general physique.
That's why we highly recommend making a muslin test or a "practice" garment of some kind (other than to familiarize yourself with its construction, that is!) - you can make the necessary sizing observations (e.g. sleeves need to be an inch longer, waist needs to be loosened, neckline needs to be taken in a bit, etc.).
All this fitting does require extra time and effort on the part of the costumer, but the finished garment's custom-tailored look will definitely be worth it!
There are four main aspects of the garment that may need adjustment and the original pattern need be altered: the neckline, the chest, the waist, and the length of the garment (at various places).
These revisions are not difficult to make, even to conform to NEMESIS "hero" uniform standards, provided one remembers the appropriate points at which the garment is to be aligned and/or coordinated.
The neckline, for instance, is simply adjusted in lateral increments of half quilt-lines ... that is, it is widened (sideways) in increments of ⅜".
The edge of the neck opening, for instance, falls exactly on a quilt line or mid-quilt line at the shoulder seam:
If, for some reason, your neckline needs to be lengthened in the other direction, it is a simple matter of adding the appropriate length to the shoulder seam on each side.
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If, for some reason, your neckline needs to be lengthened in the other direction, it is a simple matter of adding the appropriate length to the shoulder seam on each side.
For instance, if your neckline needs to be lengthened (as opposed to widened, sideways) by ¼", simply add ⅛" to both the front yoke and the back yoke on the neckline side of the shoulder seam.
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| (DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit pictured) |
The opposite would be the case if you need it let out a bit at the shoulder/armscye.
Just remember to adjust the seamline of your shoulder point accordingly!
Adjusting the chest at the bottom of the yoke is a fairly simple matter, too.
The chest sizes of the printed pattern are graded in increments of 4 ½" - that is, one additional ¾" quilt line on each front yoke, one additional ¾" quilt line on each side of the back yoke, and ⅜" on each side of the underarm/side front/side back seam and on both sides.
Any chest alterations - between the "default" sizes on the printed pattern, that is - are easiest to make in increments of ¾". This is most effectively done by taking in the armscye seam in by ⅜" on either the back or both front yokes (wherever there's more excess), thus moving the seam's ⅛" topstitching from on a quilt line to a mid-quilt line.
(All of the "default" printed pattern sizes place the yokes' armscye seam's topstitching on a quilt line, as we believe it to be ideal, but as noted in the construction analysis, a mid-quilt line is acceptable.)
In other words, the printed pattern piece will look like this in every size, in the front and the back:
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| Quilt line to quilt line |
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But you can add or remove ¾" to or from the chest by moving the armscye seam to a mid-quilt line, in either the front or the back:
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Of course, you can add or remove 1 ½" to or from the chest by doing in both the front AND the back.
Remember to adjust your shoulder point, side front and/or back body panels accordingly.
Another option, for minute chest alterations, is the top of the side front/side back seam (under the arm) - adjusting the sleeve (and sleeve lining) accordingly, of course!
The waist is, likewise, an easy aspect of the garment to alter.
Of course, as waist sizes vary widely amongst people, it's also, perhaps, the most likely to need adjustment.
Fortunately, on this jumpsuit, adjusting the waist is a fairly simple matter, as the jumpsuit, without the elastic waistband, is likely quite a bit too large around the waist. The elastic "shrinks" the waist of the jumpsuit body to the wearer to whatever degree is necessary for comfort and mobility.
In most situations, the jumpsuit's waist will be adjustable however necessary by simply adjusting the length of the elastic inside the waistband channel; for instance, if you're using 8" lengths of elastic and the jumpsuit is uncomfortably tight around the waist, try using a 9" or 10" lengths on each side instead.
Alternatively, if you're using 8" lengths of elastic and the jumpsuit is too baggy, try using 7" or 6" lengths on each side instead.
In fact, during your muslin test, you might want to begin with a long cut of elastic - say, 12" - and sew the elastic channel on first over the elastic but only securing the back end of it. Then you can tighten the elastic as necessary by pulling it along the front and pinning, basting, or marking it where the fit is best, cutting off the excess (leaving about an inch "poking out" from the channel, of course) and securing it.
Lengthening or shortening the garment is a simple matter, for the most part.
Naturally, some people will be taller while others are shorter; some may have a long torso and short legs, or vice-versa. Some people may have a long waist and short thighs, while other people may have a tiny "seat" and very long legs. Builds obviously vary considerably!
On the jumpsuit body, there are three places where we recommend lengthening or shortening the body as needed to achieve an ideal fit.
At whichever portion(s) of the body need to be lengthened, cut the pattern along one of the horizontal lines so it is two separate pieces, insert a small piece of paper underneath the two pieces, (a standard 8 ½" x 11" page will work nicely, as well any cheap craft paper you might have sitting around, or you could even put some of that junk mail to good use!), tape the three together, and, making sure the upper and lower portions are properly aligned (i.e. not straight and not crooked/slanted/etc.), use a ruler as a guide and draw a line on each side to connect them. Cut along these lines to form your new, extended pattern piece.
I (Alex), for instance, need to lengthen the upper portion of the jumpsuit body by 1" so it doesn't ride up in the crotch uncomfortably in the front and give me a wedgie in the back (TMI?).
Obviously, the same adjustment needs to be made to all of the body panels for the jumpsuit to go together properly.
To shorten the garment, simply fold the pattern paper upward at the lines then back down again, or cut along one of the horizontal lines as if you were lengthening it and overlap the upper and lower portions however much is necessary, straightening the edges if needed.
CONGRATULATIONS!!!
YOU'RE FINISHED!!!
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